Interior Designing Questions Answered

Many have simple decor questions, which create complex situations, because the comfort of a home is crucial to setting up the “just right” environment of where to spend the days and nights of life. Here are some questions by our readers:

How can I make the tall ceilings in my new house feel “not so” tall?
– Patricia

It’s funny, because when we shop for a home, we look for tall ceiling and lots of windows. After we move in, we realize those two elements create a design challenge. Now, things seem dwarfed or out of proportion because the ceiling is so tall. You need to visually “pull” the height down if you feel small in the space. You can do this with the following tips.  Try to emphasize the break in the wall between the window and ceiling line … if you can. Strategically install a decorative drapery rod above the windows so your eye will stop there and not run all the way up to the ceiling. You’ll draw attention to the panel versus the height of the ceiling. If your window extends up to the ceiling, see if you can break the window by installing a rod along a mullion of a window.

In small rooms, like a powder room or bedroom, consider painting the ceiling the same color as the walls. This way, your eye will not be drawn to the white line along the ceiling; instead, it will be unable to quickly identify where the walls and ceilings begin and end.

I’d like to add furniture to my room to add a surface as well as storage. How may I do this?
– Michelle

A great way to incorporate functional furniture is to select pieces with drawers, bins or shelves. For example, if you have an “L” shaped sectional you can find a series of bookcases to mimic the shape. Wrap the sofa with a few bookshelves with a height just below the height of the sofa. You can use the top surface as a sofa table while using the open shelves below for books, children’s games, baskets of toys or knitting yarns.

For furniture in other areas, make sure you maximize the height and width of the object you want to purchase for optimal storage. Measure the minimum and maximum space you have available before you go shopping. Too often people are misled by sizes, as most items come in “standard” sizes. What you see in a store vignette may not necessarily be the best fit for you. Don’t forget, if you can’t find it locally; consider having a piece custom made. With enough research, it can cost you just as much as store bought.

We have a large window next to a sliding door. (One window has one side of a sectional couch in front of it, but the couch ends right before the door begins). We need to do window treatments and I would prefer them to be soft treatments, but not sure what would work best. We need some privacy and would like to block late afternoon sun, but I would like to keep them open most of the time to get light into the room. I tried regular curtains, but it looks like a ton of fabric. My questions are: Do the two treatments have to match?; and what type of treatment would work best?
– Jen

Well, Jen, the treatments don’t necessarily have to match but would be best if they did. You can consider the following options:

1. Select a vertical-type blind from Hunter Douglas. They offer “Luminettes,” which are light, airy, beautiful yet practical when dealing with the sunlight. They are thin when stacked (open) so they should fit behind the sofa that covers a portion of the glass. I would suggest the blinds, when closed, cover the entire span of window/glass.

2. You can get three (matching) fabric panels made for each window; one that is operable for the center door and two that are tied (in the center) on each side window. The two side windows can be tied day to day; simply untie when you want to block the sun. When you want a symmetrical look you can tie the center drape to match the side drapes. Another option is to keep the two side windows tied at all times, but include a roller shade; either a UV screen or a perforated shade behind each tied curtain. A roller shade rolls nice and tight. You can hide the roller under a valance stretching across the entire span of windows.

What do you think about rugs in a Kitchen; should they or should they not be used?
– Flora

Rugs are good in kitchens and dining rooms so long as you cover the span the chair recesses away from the table when being used. The last thing you want is to have a chair pull the carpet up when the chair is being pulled toward the table. When selecting the kind of rug, consider how easily you can vacuum it, sweep it or simply clean it. Especially for a kitchen, it must be practical in every way.

Helen Babilla is a certified interior designer and can be reached at www.babilladesigns.com

Designing Within Your Home: Q & A

Oftentimes, we look around our rooms and think about changes we’d love to make but we either don’t know how to do them or we don’t know if what we want can even be achieved. So, in an effort to help you do what you want, I’m here to answer your questions! Let’s look at some of your inquiries already submitted:

Question: Will painting/staining hardwood floors a darker hue warm up a room? — Gina

Answer: A darker stained floor most definitely adds warmth to the room. Unstained, natural-colored hardwood floors are beautiful but oftentimes they go unnoticed. Lack of maintenance doesn’t add value to the room either.

The floor or base of the room in a darker tone adds a special kind of feeling; one difficult to achieve in any other way. It’s psychological, but undeniable.

A dark ground and solid “base” not only exudes warmth throughout the room, it also allows for a sharper contrast against the trim and wall colors. Imagine a room with a natural oak floor accompanied with almond colored walls versus a room with ebony stained floors and almond walls. Now add white trim. Not bad, right?

Also keep in mind there is no such thing as a floor being too dark. The floor takes up one quarter of the entire space; you have plenty of other items in the room to keep the space from drowning.

Question: When decorating a room do you always need a focal point? — Megan

Answer: Without a doubt! Approach decorating a room like you would approach “decorating yourself,” i.e., getting dressed. If you put on a cute black dress with tall, flat-healed boots, then for accent you’ll need extra large hoop earrings, a great, long necklace or a fun handbag to add a punch. If not, your eye won’t have anything to focus on.
Designing a room with a focal point in mind adds interest to the room — an anchor, if you will. The most difficult room in which to create an interesting focal point is the kitchen. But, with the current trends to disguise appliances beneath cabinet panels or sliding doors, an interesting stone countertop can take precedence. Other rooms are a bit simpler or are dictated by what the room is used for. As you would suspect, most family rooms have no choice but to allow the fireplace and/or a wall-hung plasma to be the focal point.

Keep in mind it’s not always the size dictating the focal point. It’s what you do to either enhance or hide the items that define it.

Question: What should I do with gifts from family or friends that don’t fit my style? — Johnna

Answer: I have three options for you:

a) If you can (kind of) bare it, try to display it seasonally to change things up a bit. Even if it’s not something you would have purchased you may like to try it as a new temporary accessory — at least while the gift giver is visiting.
b) Try to exchange it for something similar in style or function. When the family member comes over you can point out the fact you exchanged it, still giving them the feeling it is “from” them.
c) If you absolutely cannot stand it, re-gift but not as a “real” gift. Take it as a “love gift” to a friend when you meet them for coffee, assuming it is her style.

Question: How do you start the transition of changing a theme for a room? — Lauren

Answer: By theme, I’m assuming you mean a child’s themed room? You can definitely transition themes over time. Say you have a transportation theme for your son’s room. First, you’ll want to assess the items defining this idea.
Make a list of the specific themed details, such as the closet knobs in a train shape, sheets printed with cars, a ceiling light fan with planes or wallpaper border with a street scene. As the child grows up, you can continue to decide how you want to transform the once-themed room. When selecting new items consider replacing the children’s items with more expensive or affixed ones in an interesting yet neutral style. Most likely you can keep the basics and simply change out the youthful items.

Question: What type of window treatment do you suggest for large windows that get a lot of light? — Allison

Answer: Because of the variety of options, window treatments can be very tricky. First, be specific with your needs. Ask yourself exactly what it is you want to achieve: Is it privacy from the neighbors walking along the sidewalk? Do you need hotel-like darkness in the morning? Is it sun protection for your floors and furnishings? Do you want to protect from heat loss or gain during the changing seasons? Try to get as detailed as possible to help narrow your choices.

You should also ask yourself if you want light to filter through, or if you want complete privacy. Can the choice you make be even better by adding a slim roller shade behind the main treatment? Layering, although expensive, gives you all types of flexibility.

Consider other upgrades such as (my favorite) a top-down, bottom-up mechanism allowing you to pull up or drop down the treatment. This feature allows you to control the light exactly how you want it throughout the day.

When you shop, don’t forget to consider the operation of the windows! Often times, people make selections because of the specific color available in a particular line or price range, ignoring the daily window operation. Don’t make this mistake. If you do have a price range, look for a better deal or wait a few more months to save more money. You can, in the meantime, purchase temporary pleated shaded for a few dollars at your local hardware store.

Please send your questions to thesavvygal@thesavvygal.com. Visit Helen’s Web site at www.babilladesigns.com. Helen is a certified interior designer based in Chicago, IL. She contributes to the TheSavvyGal.com once a month and is ready to help you design.

The Color Senses

A Miami beach hotel with floor-to-ceiling sheer white drapes, white Carerra marble tile and chrome accents creates a cool, contemporary clean feeling while a stroll through a turn-of-the-century restored brownstone enveloped with jewel tones of midnight blue, emerald green and ruby red creates a warm, cozy, comfortable space. And a floral bouquet in spring made up of pink tulips, yellow freesia and blue hydrangeas is welcomed in April while a collection of apricot tiger lilies, eggplant colored calla lilies and red anthuriums is perfect for autumn.

The cool hues in the spring and the warm hues in the autumn arrangements touch an emotion; a feeling, as do the colors displayed throughout your home.

When it comes to interiors, most of us know what we like when we see it, but we don’t know exactly why we like what we see. Often times a client will show me a magazine clipping exclaiming how they love a particular room but upon closer inspection, they really don’t like the sofa, the area rug or the window treatments. The parts do make the whole, but often times that theory doesn’t work when talking about interior spaces. I find clients are drawn to the feeling they get from the magazine photo; it’s not necessarily the details in the photo that are desired, but the way things are pulled together and the colors used create that feeling. You, too, could create the feeling you so desire in your personal space.

Once you have determined the feeling you want to achieve, it helps to understand the way colors work. There is a cool and warm value to almost all colors. If not carried in the particular color (i.e., white or black), the colors used around its environment reflect a value within. For example, there is a cool and warm in blue and a cool and warm in green. The “coolness” or “warmth” is created within the intensity of a particular color.

The color saturation (see color terms and definitions at the end of this article) defines the hue. If you look at a purple that is highly saturated, you’re looking at an “Eggplant” (deep dark plum), which renders a warmer feel; it’s dramatic and powerful. A purple with very little saturation creates a hue that may be called “Iced Lilac” — a color that is bright, lively and cool — ideal for a nursery.

Of course you can combine light and dark tones within the same space but it’s the proportion of the particular color dictating the overall feeling. Imagine a nursery adorned with hand-rubbed “iced lilac” walls, an imperfect, rustic painted white wood floor and an antiqued wood spindled crib with a honey tone wood rocking chair. The area rug may carry those colors along with mid-toned shades of pink and purple. Perhaps the sheers lightly covering the widows are also in a mid-toned purple. All of this works because the proportions are clearly defined — the majority of colors are light and soft and tinted while the accent colors are darker. When the colors are kept close enough in value (intensity), the interaction is soothing; it works because of the careful balance.

When selecting colors, there really isn’t a right or a wrong choice. The colors you select should define who you are and what feeling you’re trying to create. In my opinion, the biggest misconception is when people run away from using dark colors in small spaces.

The most beautiful powder room I have ever seen was in 1992 in a showcase home while I was in Design School. The designer selected black upholstered walls for the smallest, tiniest bathroom I have ever seen in my life. It was an old Victorian home — not my particular taste, but it was a showpiece — totally ornamented and adorned with over-the-top accessories, oversized furniture and an abundance of details … it was simply magnificent! The powder room was powerful; it was deep, dark, sexy and outright dramatic. This misconception of avoiding dark colors in small places often times distracts folks from using a color that can add a lot of drama; either cool or warm. Design with the intention of creating a mood; a feeling and this will dictate your color within.

Here is a helpful list of terms used in the world of color:

Hue: defines the property of color. This is usually what we mean when we ask “what color is that?’

Saturation: describes the intensity of a hue/color. Either a weak or strong color; pale or strong. Think color absorption.

Value: refers to the brightness of a hue; light or dark. Values are “higher” or “lower” than others depending on how close they are to white. For example, canary yellow is higher in value than charcoal grey since yellow is closer to white than charcoal.

Luminance: a lightness a color gives; obviously lighter colors contain a luminance about them; a sheen or brightness.

Tint: when white is added to a color, it is tinted

Tone: the application of black to a color

Shade: adding gray to the color

Helen Babilla is a certified Interior Designer out of Chicago, IL; www.babilladesigns.com. She contributes to TheSavvyGal.com once a month and is ready to answer your decorating questions. Next month: She answers Q&A; send your questions to thesavvygal@thesavvygal.com

Organize It!

So I’m helping my sister clean out her garage over Memorial Day weekend. Much to my surprise it was a lot more enjoyable then I expected. Assessing how things could be more functional and convenient while being aesthetically pleasing is inspiring.
Anyone faced with this dreadful task can relate; it’s daunting at first, but the results far outweigh the chore. While I’m an interior designer by trade, I also believe organization sets the mood of the home. Let’s look at some specific rooms and see if I can inspire you to tackle the chore of organizing.
The bathroom:
Bathrooms in my opinion are hard to organize for two reasons. First, the tiny little items you need on a daily basis normally get misplaced. Second, the large empty cavity under the sink becomes a catch-all. Let’s face it, as much as we would like to see this happen, the doors to the vanity are not going to magically pop open to reveal a carefully organized space.
So, a good place to start is to throw out what you don’t use. Sounds simple right … it’s not the hardest thing to do. But, you may think you need that item next fall, or maybe you know the perfect recipient for the 1980′s banana clip. Do us all a favor, give the banana clip to your trash can. And next year’s Halloween costume will do just fine without the fluorescent orange nail polish.
Once you eliminate the unnecessary, sort through and separate the items you use based on a daily, weekly and monthly basis. Then think about where to store each pile. The key here is to examine the situation. Assess your drawers, cabinets and closets accordingly. Ask yourself, what will fit best in each location proportionately? For your daily necessities, will it be best to open a drawer lined with plastic organizers with each item stored in its own spot? Or would it be better to place those necessities in a plastic bin with a handle to easily transport from the nearby linen closet to the countertop.
The kitchen:
Not only is there a cavity under your bathroom sink, but we have to deal with the wasted space under the kitchen sink as well. Working around a disposal or filtration system makes it even more challenging. But it can be done! Measure the available space in the cabinet and take an inventory of the items you need to store. You will find an abundance of modular plastic coated racks in a variety of widths and lengths.
To maximize the space, layer these shelves and organize smaller and frequently used items in the front, while placing larger less frequently used items in the back. Take the time to turn the label toward you to quickly identify the item you are looking for. Don’t let that flashlight get lost in the back. Keep it up front and let it guide you.
In kitchen cabinets, adjust the heights of shelves to maximize the space. Don’t forget your utensil organizers. These also come in various sizes, so know the length and width prior to shopping. Bed Bath and Beyond, The Container Store and Target are great resources for these items.
The garage:
After you’ve invested time donating items you don’t need, prioritize your necessities. Consider purchasing a shed to house off-season items freeing up garage space. Another trick for the garage is to use hooks, hung from the ceiling or walls. Mops, brooms, bikes, sleds, ladders, fishing rods, etc., can be safely stored off the ground. This is especially helpful when you live in a climate with much snow and or rain. Now it’s common to find cabinets specifically made for the garage that attach to the wall and are up off the ground. Storing items in clear plastic bins in the attic will also help reduce clutter in the garage. Labeling the plastic bins will be a huge time saver when it’s time to get those Christmas decorations out again.
Here are a couple of additional helpful hints for the aspiring queens of organization.
* Keep smaller items in their original box. If there isn’t perforation for easy access, tear off the entire side of the box for accessibility. This works best for boxes of feminine products such as pads or tampons. Loose floppy box tops just get in the way.
* Try to be creative, look for existing household items that can be used for storage. For example, use a jar with a lid to house loose buttons. Have a nice empty shoebox? Use it to store your cocktail purses.
* Bring in an extra set of eyes, they can look at your current situation and point out the impractical. For my sister, suggesting she buy a three-tiered wire rack for $13.00 helped her store beverages in the garage in a way she never would have thought to do. This saves her space and eliminates clutter.
Follow these tips now and have a stress-free, organized summer. The satisfaction you get is definitely worth the effort.
If you have questions or you have suggestions on future articles, feel free to fill out a comment card below or email us at TheSavvyGal@TheSavvyGal.com.
Helen Babilla is a certified Interior Designer out of Chicago, IL; www.babilladesigns.com. She contributes to TheSavvyGal.com once a month and is ready to answer your decorating questions!

Let There Be Light

When standing in front of a dressing room mirror, do you ever wonder why you look worse than you do in your own mirror at home? After seeing yourself in a mirror at the office, have you wondered how you applied so much make-up? How about your favorite restaurants … are you drawn to particular restaurants more than others? Do you find comfort in certain rooms of your home?

Lighting affects how you look and how you feel. For example, lighting that is properly placed behind the floating mirror in a dressing room is much more flattering than a fluorescent light bar mounted above a mounted wall mirror. The latter is equivalent to holding a flashlight under your chin — shadows enhance undesirable details. Lighting specialist, Lori Bohner from the Chicago retail outfit “Lightology” answers some questions regarding the importance of lighting. She addresses common mistakes that people make along with applications for us to consider when lighting a space.

Question 1: How do you start the lighting design process for a residential project?
First, Lori said, learn about the home. Is it new construction or a remodel? If it’s new construction, is it a high rise with concrete ceilings or is it a home with drywall ceilings? Learning about the structure will set specific parameters for a designer and the client. Furniture layout and room usage are also important considerations. Once the space assessment is complete, the next step is to focus on “layering” the lighting.

Question 2: Why is “layered lighting” important?
The eye naturally gravitates to the lightest part of a room. Your eyes can’t tell your brain to notice anything special when all the lights are the same brightness. The most common mistake people make is “over-lighting,” which causes that dreaded “flat” look. Flat is when the light sources in the room give an overall bright (generic) light. In new construction you typically find six “can” lights in a living room ceiling; this look (without a dimmer) is “flat.”
Layering the lighting adds interest and purpose in your space plan. Lori applies the following principle to each and every situation. She recommends three types of lighting in each room: general, task and ambient.

• General lighting is when you walk into a room, turn on a switch and have a light overhead turn on; it’s for safety and practical purposes.
• Task lighting is when you assign a specific light fixture for a specific need; a floor lamp near your favorite chair for reading, or an under-the-cabinet light in your kitchen for reading recipes.
• Ambient lighting refers to mood lighting; controlled lighting that may be dimmed for entertainment or for relaxing. Cove lighting or decorative sconces, picture and art lighting also fall into this category. In her opinion, ambient lighting is overlooked the most often.

Question 3: Are all recessed cans the same?
Absolutely not. Recessed canned lighting (basic lighting) can actually achieve any of the three types of layered light described above. Cans and baffles (the rim around the recessed portion of the light bulb) come in different sizes and colors. Baffles control the light output. For example, using a black baffle absorbs a huge amount of light. This is a good application in a home theatre — in a kitchen, bad idea.

Some cans give you the fantastic option to adjust the direction of the bulb after installation. Different brands also do different things. Lori suggested to try can lights to specifically “spot” artwork on walls, or to highlight a side table with a unique accessory on it. You can imagine the subtle beauty of a discreet light highlighting a beautiful treasure displayed on a buffet or table. But six generic recessed cans installed in a ceiling won’t add dimension in your room. When used properly, cans have the ability to make light disappear; when done right, you will notice the effect of the light without noticing the fixture.

Quick tips from Lori:

• Best lighting for applying make-up: A halogen light bar above the mirror with two wall sconces with dimmers is best, yet, often disregarded due to budget.
• Common misconception: The brighter the better. But, not necessarily so, because that can create the dreaded flat-look.
• Dimming a light fixture by just 10 percent more than doubles the life of a bulb!
• Rule of thumb for chandeliers over dining table: for an 8′ ceiling, install fixture so bottom is at 30″ above table. For each additional foot of ceiling height, add 3″ to installation height. The size of the fixture depends on the effect you are trying to achieve but generally speaking, the diameter of the light fixture should be half the table size and no larger than the width of the table plus or minus 12 inches.
• When shopping for a fixture, consider working with a lighting specialist, as she will have the expertise and awareness to help you select the best fixture considering your space, style and purpose. The specialists are trained to blend their technical knowledge of lighting with your aesthetic preferences.

The light in a room is like the Preface in a book; it directs your eyes to naturally go places. So, look around your room … where are your eyes leading you?

If you have questions regarding purchases — or you have suggestions on future articles, feel free to fill out a comment card below or email us at TheSavvyGal@TheSavvyGal.com
Lori Bohner can be found at “Lightology”. A store “where art meets Light,” in Chicago, Illinois. 312.229.7428.
Helen Babilla is a certified Interior Designer out of Chicago, IL; www.babilladesigns.com. She contributes to TheSavvyGal.com once a month and is ready to answer your decorating questions!

Buying a Sofa: Proportion, Size and Balance

Ready to update that room in your home but don’t know where to start? Are you afraid to make a $10,000 mistake? Feeling overwhelmed? Many people work with interior designers, but if you’re brave enough to do it on your own, or until you find the designer that you click with, here are some tips on what you need to do before you shop for new furniture — particularly a sofa.

One of the first things a designer will do is to interview you to find out why you want to renovate the room. Ask yourself what are your needs, desires and goals for that particular room. For our purposes here, let’s assess your family room:

• Do you want to create a cozy, informal relaxing space to put your feet up and watch TV? Then, consider a comfy sofa or sectional with a chaise or upholstered ottoman to use in lieu of a cocktail table.
• How many people would you like to seat? Think about everyone in the family, and when you may have company over, and determine how many people will fit in your room. Decide if you’d like a couch and loveseat, or a sectional. You may think a sectional will seat more when in fact you may accommodate less (corners are great to cuddle in, but aren’t typically useful when company needs to sit comfortably).
• What is your main activity in that room? Do you hang out and watch TV, informally entertain or do kids need space to do their homework? Do you and your significant other each need a place to recline your feet? Do the people who reside there prefer a soft, cushy sofa or a firm recliner? Questions like these will dictate the type and amount of furniture you would like. (Whether it will fit or not is another question, of course.)

As you set off to shop for the piece(s) that you decide would “make the room,” remember that shopping at various stores can be tricky. Store ceiling heights, upholstery patterns, colors and lighting may effect the perception of the size of furniture. What may look good size-wise in the store may in actuality be too big or too small in your home. Therefore, grab paper, pencil and a measuring tape and get ready to draw! Don’t be intimidated; it is not as hard as you may think.

You don’t need perfectly straight lines. Simple colored double lines that represent the thickness of the wall is all you need. Measure the length of the wall and transpose that onto paper using 1/4″ to 1 foot scale. Draw the lines to represent the length of the wall. When you get to a doorway, pick up the pencil, leave the proper opening then start drawing again. When you get to a window, just don’t color in that part of the wall. This pseudo floor plan will help the store representative assist you when selecting furniture.

The next step is to measure. (If you haven’t already, invest in a good quality 25-foot metal measuring tape. Yardsticks and fabric tape measures that you have lying around the house won’t work as well.) Stand in the room that you plan to redecorate or redesign. Take a good long look around. Let’s say that you want to replace your existing sofa and loveseat with a sectional. Try to visualize that sectional in various locations in the room. Just because your existing furniture has been in the same place for years may not mean it’s the best placement. Determine if repositioning furniture will make the room bigger, smaller; what will face a TV, patio, kitchen or fireplace? Will there be sufficient space to walk? Traffic patterns, windows and, nowadays, a wall large enough to house a flat screen will dictate the furniture layout or space plan. With measuring tape in hand, see how long, deep and wide the sectional can be. To further help, temporarily move your existing furniture. Cut out newspaper to fit the size of the preferred sofa and lay it in the location you prefer. Although it won’t give you an idea of the mass, it will give you confidence that you will have enough room to walk around it. Once you have decided on the size that works for your function and space, write it down! Write down the maximum and minimum you are willing to go. Use them as a reference when shopping.
Then, consider the balance of the sectional in comparison to the rest of the furniture of the room. When looking at existing or (potential) new coordinating pieces, ask yourself a few questions: is the cocktail table big enough to accommodate persons sitting down or will it appear dwarfed? Since the sectional is typically the largest piece in the room, many make the mistake of buying a table that may be too “blocky,” heavy or big. Look for a table that will balance the style, size and personality of the new sofa.

And, finally, don’t compromise on finding the perfect piece. If you become tired of shopping (that was hard for me to say) take a few weekends off. If your significant other would rather watch a game on TV than shop, narrow down the search and only take him after you have narrowed down the search. And, feel confident about your decision; trust your instinct when selecting a color and hang tight until the new piece arrives. It really can be that easy!

If you have questions regarding purchases you just can’t pull the trigger on — or you have suggestions on future articles, feel free to fill out a comment card below or email us at TheSavvyGal@TheSavvyGal.com
Helen Babilla is a certified Interior Designer out of Chicago, IL; www.babilladesigns.com. She will be contributing to TheSavvyGal.com once a month and is ready to answer your decorating questions.