How to Spend a Fall Weekend in Tahoe
Lake Tahoe receives more than half of its tourism business for the entire year between the months of June and August. If you were not able to take a break from your hectic summer schedule to visit – no worries! In the height of the summer season, restaurants are crowded, days are hot and reservations for lake activities are hard to come by. Come up for a fall weekend instead.
The fall season boasts a local feel, half price happy hours and the same lake activities and shopping opportunities as the summer, but at a much more relaxed pace.
Sleep Well
You can call for reservations at a lakeside bed-and-breakfast before you arrive. Cottage Inn in Sunnyside is a good choice. Each of the fifteen rooms boasts a fireplace, a whirlpool bath and a unique, secluded vibe. The staff offers a free full breakfast each morning, and there is beach access right outside your door. The helpful concierge will book the lake activities and restaurant reservations for the duration of your stay.
If you want to be right in Tahoe City try the Mayfield House.
Shop Well
Once you have thrown down your bags treat yourself to walk around Boatworks Mall in Tahoe City Friday evening, where stores stay open until 7 pm. Make sure to stop by Snooks, the local confectionary, for a quick sugar fix. After the stores close wonder into Sol Y Lago, on the top level of the mall, for a million-dollar-view cocktail or a glass of sangria. Enjoy the sunset from the lakeview deck over some Latina-inspired tapas. Provoleta a la Plancha (pan-fried provolone cheese), Quinoa Gratin and Lomo Saltado (sizzling tenderloin with spices) are some of the local favorites. Stay for the nightlife scene at this funky spot, owned by a former Bay Area restaurateur. You will get an earful of house music played by deejays from all over California. The music on Fridays starts at about 9.30 pm, call ahead to confirm. Have fun at this easygoing dance spot but don’t stay out too late because the warm Tahoe sunshine will be beckoning you out of bed bright and early Saturday morning.
Play/Eat Well
Do what you came to Tahoe to do and spend the day on the water! Start off with a dip in the lake, towel off and head to the Tahoe City Marina. If you have some cash to drop your best option is a daylong boat rental. Easy trips include motoring over to Sand Harbor or down to Emerald Bay. Ask at the marina for their suggestions, locations will vary depending on the weather conditions and time of year. Pack a picnic lunch or stop at Gar Woods or Chambers Landing for a quick bite on the pier. But be forewarned, renting your own boat will cost no less than $120/hour and there is a four hour minimum on most rentals. If you are looking for something a bit less expensive, ask them how to find the Tahoe Gal office, set up behind Safeway supermarket. They offer two to four cruises a day, ranging from a brunch option to a dinner dancing sunset sail. If you go for this option and find you have a bit of time to kill in town, you can check out the breakfast options at Rosie’s and go for a stroll around Main Street, which boasts unique Tahoe stores.
After a long day of shopping and playing on the lake, opt for a casual dinner by the river at the Bridgetender, where bar food options include a great chicken teriyaki burger and waffle garlic fries. For a slightly more fancy option go across Fanny Bridge to the River Grill where they offer a great wine selection and good fish, steak and pasta options.
Spend the evening cozying up in the B&B with a puzzle, or continue exploring the local nightlife scene up in Squaw Valley at Zenbu or the Auld Dubliner. Between these two spots you will most probably find one that will be hosting live music and you can dance and bar hop until the wee hours. But come Sunday morning, get ready to take advantage of the great local hiking options before you head out of town.
Stop at the Dam Cafe for a breakfast burrito, then drive down Hwy 89 South for a day of hiking in one of the state parks: Emerald Point in the Desolation Wilderness, D.L Bliss State Park, or Sugar Pine State Park. On your way back up the road stop for a quick scramble up Eagle Rock (ask in town how to get there, the turn-out isn’t marked at all) for a truly breath-taking view of Lake Tahoe. After that, drive home safe. We’ll see you when the snow starts falling!
Coffee Talk
Thank Goodness for coffee. The social aspect, the full-bodied comfort … how about the desperately needed caffeine? Since the ninth century when the coffea plant was initially discovered in Ethiopia, this beverage has been providing (wo)mankind with energy and social interaction.
But how much do you really know about the world’s third favorite beverage (behind water and tea)? Impress the cute barista at your local coffee bar by brushing up on some facts and terminology below. Also find some great home brew tips for the savvy gal on a savvy budget.
The Nuts and Beans
Coffee is harvested from the coffea plant, a native to subtropical regions such as Africa, Central America and Southern Asia. There are two species of coffea plant used for heavy commercial coffee production: the coffea aribica (Arabic) and the coffea canephora (Robusta). Coffea aribica is widely regarded to produce better tasting coffee, but coffea canephora is a more tolerant plant, with a much wider growing range. It will grow at low elevations, which makes it easier to farm and thus more commercially viable.
The coffea plant was initially discovered in the Ethiopian high country. As legend has it, a shepherd was tending his goats and noticed them feeling energetic after eating the leaves of a certain tree. The shepherd tried some of the leaves and fruit of the plant and realized it had the same effect of him. Thus coffee was born. It’s popularity spread quickly. From the Middle East it was brought to Venice via a trading route. It was introduced to Europe and then during the Revolutionary War when tea was hard to come by in the States its popularity spread over the Atlantic.
Cherished Cherries
In nature coffee does not at all resemble the beans we see in coffee houses and grocery stores. The coffee beans we see are actually seeds of the cherry fruit produced by the coffea tree. Coffea cherries turn a rich crimson color when ripe and ready to be picked. After they have been harvested they are brought to a processing facility where the outer skin of the fruit is stripped off. The beans are then fermented to ease the removal of the outer casing from the bean, and after this they are polished to remove the inner casing. What is left is a tough, green bean somewhere between a pea and a kidney bean in size and shape.
A Toast to the Roast
In their raw, green form coffee beans still have all the flavor locked inside. In order to bring it out, the beans must be roasted. The internal heat provided in this process aids reactions that change the chemical composition of coffee, giving it flavor and depth. There are several different ways to roast coffee. The lightest roast, called a cinnamon roast, is achieved by roasting the beans for only a very short amount of time. It is called a cinnamon roast because of the cinnamon color of the beans after roasting. The flavors in a cinnamon roast are not allowed to develop enough and taken alone this coffee can taste very bitter and acidic. Cinnamon roasts are sometimes used in coffee blends. The darkest roast available is the espresso roast. In espresso roasts the beans omit a lot of oil and turn a dark brown chocolate color.
The Grind is Fine
Once coffee beans have been roasted they are ready to grind and go! There are several different ways to grind coffee and each is specific to a preparation method. If you are using a commercial grinder it will usually have setting ranging from coarse to extra fine. A coarse grind is needed for French press coffee, while a medium to medium-fine grind works better for drip coffee machines. Fine and extra fine grinds are reserved for espresso and Turkish coffee.
Talk the Talk
Coffee is a multi-billion dollar industry with a specific terminology. Let’s review some common, American coffee house terms.
Americano — A drink prepared by pressing espresso and adding hot water.
Barista — An Italian term for the espresso master. In the United States it can be used to refer to pretty much anyone behind the espresso machine.
Breve — If someone requests a drink “breve” it simply means instead of milk they would like half and half or cream.
Cafe Latte — A beverage made by mixing espresso with hot milk. In the U.S. a typical ratio is two shots of espresso, 8 ounces of steamed milk and 2 ounces of foamed milk.
Cafe Macchiato — Contrary to common belief (caused mostly by the intense popularity of the Starbucks Caramel Macchiato, which is actually a latte) a macchiato is made when espresso is poured over foamed milk. Macchiato is Italian for “the markings,” and the title refers to the markings the espresso makes in the milk foam.
Cappuccino — Another beverage that combines espresso, steamed milk and foamed milk. In the mixture the ratio of foamed milk present in the beverage is higher. A standard American cappuccino is served with about half steamed milk and half foamed milk. However you can request a “dry cappuccino” which means more foam will be added, or a ” wet cappuccino” where less foam is used.
Crema — The golden foam found on top of a shot of espresso. A thick head of crema is the mark of an excellent pour of espresso. The foam is composed of the oils that form on the bean during the roasting process.
Drip Brew Coffee — This refers to coffee generated by placing coffee grinds in a filter and pouring boiling water over them. The water absorbs the flavor of the coffee and seeps through the filter due to the force of gravity while the coffee grinds remain in the filter, being too large to pass through.
Espresso — A very fine grind of coffee from very dark roasted beans. Traditionally espresso is prepared by forcing water through ground beans at a higher pressure than normal. The high pressure forces the water through fast, which means it picks up only the top notes and oils from this dark grind.
French Press Coffee — Another method for making coffee, where coffee grinds are placed in a plunger pot and boiling water is poured directly over the grinds. A plunging filter is then used to separate the grinds from the water. This results in a deeper flavor than drip coffee provides.
A Home Brew
Little short on cash? One of the easiest ways to save money is to skip your daily outing to the coffee shop and get your caffeine fix at home. Depending on what you drink this can save you $7 (for a daily bring-your-own-cup drip brew) to $25 (for a pre-work latte) a week. To make a good cup a coffee at home I recommend investing in a French press. They look elegant, don’t take up a lot of counter space and provide rich, deep brews. A good French press can be acquired for as little as $30. Once you have made this investment keep coarsely ground coffee on hand and whenever the mood strikes use about a forth of a cup coffee grinds for each cup of coffee you want to make.
Measure out your ground beans, pour very hot water over them in the plunger pot (French press) and wait for all the grinds to settle to the top. Give the grinds a quick stir and then fit the plunger on the top of the jug and press down. Let the coffee seep for five to six minutes.
For the coffee drinkers out there, there is nothing more satisfying than a good, freshly-brewed cup of java … enjoy!
Veggie-Lution: Being a Vegetarian
If you decide being a vegetarian is good for you, then here is some basic information about different ways to go vegetarian in a fulfilling and healthy way. Do whatever works for you and makes you feel best about your body. It is most important to be healthy, so be sure to consult your doctor.
What color is your broccoli?
Changing from a meat intensive diet to a strict vegetarian regime is a big decision. It should not be done quickly or taken lightly. Think carefully about your lifestyle and consider this question: What kind of vegetarian do you want to be? If you are going vegetarian purely for health reasons, I would recommend trying a semi-vegetarian diet.
Semi-vegetarian diets encompass three subcategories: casual vegetarians, pollo-vegetarians and pesco-vegetarians. Casual vegetarians refrain from eating meat during the week but indulge in meat on the weekends. Pollo-vegetarians will eat chicken and fish. Pesco-vegetarians eat fish but no other meat.
Any of these three choices will most likely lower your blood pressure (experts believe the artery clogging fat found in beef is one of the leading causes of high blood pressure) and promote weight loss without making you or your family feel deprived of the foods you love. Some liken casual vegetarianism to following a strict diet with “cheat days” on the weekends. Pollo- and pesco-vegetarianism are more similar to following a responsible, low-fat diet at all times. Experiment and decide which method works best for you.
If your reasons for going vegetarian expand beyond the realm of simple health concerns into a feeling of environmental responsibility or a moral issue with eating animals you will want to consider a stricter vegetarian regime. The most common type of vegetarian diet today is termed a lacto-ovo vegetarian diet. This allows for the consumption of dairy products and eggs but rules out all meat choices completely. While eggs and dairy are certainly still animal products, they can be produced without causing mortal harm to the animals, which many people find comforting. Someone who eats dairy but not eggs is considered a lacto vegetarian and someone who eats eggs but not dairy is considered an ovo vegetarian.
Going beyond lacto-ovo vegetarianism the next step is becoming a vegan. Vegans are vegetarians who eat no animal products of any kind. Many vegans state their motive as a grave concern with not only the slaughter industry in this country, but the dairy industry as well. They don’t want to see animals kept in inhumane or unsafe conditions for any reason.
Additionally, they don’t want to interfere with the life cycle of another species on this planet. This extends into not using any animal derived products, such as honey, gelatin, soaps made with animal fat or any products tested on animals such as certain cosmetics or antibiotic drugs. They will also avoid wearing animal products such as fur, leather or wool.
Beyond veganism are dietary preferences such as fruitarian and raw foods diets. These diets are highly specialized. Fruitarians will only eat fruit (obviously!), which may include nuts, seeds, some whole grains and olive oils. Following a raw food diet means you are a vegan who will not consume any food product heated to more than 104 degrees.
These diets are very extreme and require extensive research and extreme mindfulness to ensure they are carried out in a healthy manner.
Don’t be a “French-fry-atarian”
Conducted properly a vegetarian diet can reduce your risk for heart disease, lower the risk of adult onset diabetes, lower blood pressure and cholesterol, clean out your intestinal track and assist with weight loss. However you must keep in mind that whatever kind of diet you choose you are accountable for making healthy eating choices.
When you become a vegetarian you must make responsible decisions about how you will replace the calories in your diet once reserved for meat products. You cannot replace the meat in your diet with sugar, grease and simple carbohydrates. It will make you gain weight and feel lethargic. Over time it will malnourish you to the point of anemia (severe iron deficiency). Do not use vegetarianism as an excuse to eat French fries and candy because “it’s just too hard to find anything else most places.”
If you are eating in establishments where there are no vegetarian options except French fries and candy, then you are eating in absolutely the wrong places. Run away! In most reasonable eating establishments your server will be happy to suggest vegetarian substitutions if you explain your eating choices.
When you begin a vegetarian diet you need to substitute meat choices with healthy nutrient-packed, vegetarian options such as soy products, beans, kale, bok choy, dried fruit and root vegetables. Get familiar with the produce aisle of your supermarket and challenge yourself to make each meal as colorful and tasty as possible.
The skinny on protein
Protein is essential to the healthy functioning of the human body. Protein is crucial in building muscle. It is also responsible for strengthening and repairing red blood cells; one of the human bodies most important building blocks.
It is a common myth that it is difficult for vegetarians to get enough protein in their diets. With the limited diet faced by vegans, protein intake is a concern but semi-vegetarians and lacto-ovo vegetarians should have no problem getting the recommended daily amount of protein.
The issue with vegetarian protein consumption is the availability of complete proteins. A brief biology lesson from Veggie 101 goes like this: Proteins are made up of chains of amino acids. It takes many amino acids bonded strongly together in a chain to compose a complete protein. Complete proteins are only available from animal sources. However, if two incomplete, complementary protein sources are combined at the same meal or in the same day they can be digested together and they will form a complete protein. Some good vegetarian examples include: rice and beans, tofu and beans, pita and hummus, milk and cereal, peanut butter and bread.
Adults need a minimum of .8 grams of protein per every kilogram of body weight to keep their tissues strong and healthy. This converts to roughly 7 grams of protein for every 20 US pounds of body weight. So, a 160-pound adult female requires about 56 grams of protein a day.
In a day of lacto ovo vegetarian eating this could include low fat milk and protein fortified cereal for breakfast, a piece of fruit for a morning snack, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich on whole wheat bread for lunch, cottage cheese or yogurt for a snack and tofu and brown rice for dinner.
Pill poppers
When you are first starting out on a vegetarian diet it is not a bad idea to take a multi-vitamin while your body adjusts to your new diet. A good multi will have trace minerals as well. Generally, once you get started on a vegetarian diet you will find you are eating enough of most vitamins and minerals through fresh fruits, seasonal vegetables and whole grains. After all, why do you think meat is a good source of vitamins and minerals? Those animals eat plants!
Editors’ note: Be sure to consult a physician before becoming a vegetarian; stay healthy with care!
A Beginner’s Guide to Car Maintenance: No, You Don’t Need a Mechanic for That (or that…or that…)
Don’t let your lack of testosterone lead you into an overpriced mechanic shop every time something goes wrong with your car. Some of the most common automotive mishaps can be handled quickly and easily without ever having to consult a professional.
The knowledge of how to fix and prevent minor car problems can be empowering and lead to an increased sense of pride and ownership in your vehicle as well as some extra money in your bank account. Below are five easy automotive how-to’s to make even the most mechanically impaired gal more comfortable behind the wheel.
1. Stay Prepared and Well Informed
When you buy your car make sure it comes with a comprehensive owners manual. Skip a night of “Scrubs” and sit down with this book. Your owner’s manual has lots of important information about your vehicle such as when to take it in for oil changes and automotive checks, what kind of oil and gasoline keeps your car functioning best and any specific, unique-to-your-vehicle information needed.
This manual alone will make you feel much more comfortable with your car’s features and how it operates. While you are reviewing this information make sure you take note of how to locate and check all relevant and easy to find fluid levels in your car. Check your fluid levels every few weeks and while you’re at it, poke around under the hood a bit. As you gain familiarity with your engine, you will start to notice when things look different or not quite right and this preventative behavior may keep you out of emergency situations.
Lastly, before you burn rubber, make sure you have the following in your car:
- Good road maps of the areas where you will be traveling
- Your car owner’s manual
- A spare or donut tire and a tire wench
- A pressure gauge for tires (available at gas stations for under five dollars)
- A set of jumper cables
- Clean rags
- Flare signals
- A cell phone or car phone and all relevant emergency numbers
- A first aid kit
- Extra water, food and an emergency blanket
Now you are truly ready to hit the road.
2. Know how to change a tire.
When you get stranded, know how to put on your spare.
3. How to Jump Start a Car
This is another bit of knowledge able to keep you out of dangerous situations. If you have your own set of jumper cables and know how to jumpstart your own car, you can be very selective about the people you choose to inform that you are stranded on the side of the road.
You will need:
- Your jumper cables
- A clean rag
- A willing motorist with a fully charged battery
Once you have acquired the help of another person with a car, here’s what to do: have her park her car so that the two car batteries are as close together as possible without the cars touching and have her turn off their car. Open the battery casing on both cars, carefully wipe down the connection terminals using a clean rag and connect the jumper cables in the following order: first connect the positive charge cable (usually red or orange) to the positive terminal on the battery of the charged car, then to the positive terminal on the battery of the dead car. Next connect the ground charge cable (usually black) first to the dead car anywhere the charge can ground out such as bolt on the engine or an unpainted metal surface of the car. Do the same with the other side of the ground charge cable on the charged car. Make sure to follow this order exactly as connecting the cables in the wrong order could cause either one of the engines to blow out. Don’t allow the clamps of the jumper cables to touch each other when connected to either car.
Leaving the charged car off with the key removed from the ignition; insert and turn the key to start the dead car. If it does not start on the first try you can readjust the red jumper cable on the dead car battery for a better connection. Keep attempting to start the dead car. Once the dead car has been jumped remove the cables in the reverse of the sequence you applied them in. Once your car has been successfully jumpstarted make sure to run it for at least a half an hour to allow your battery to recharge.
4. How to Check Your Oil
Oil is what keeps your engine lubricated and running. To check your oil level regularly and keep enough oil in your car is probably one of the easiest and most cost effective things you can do for your vehicle. All you need is a clean rag.
In preparation, park your car on level grond and let the engine cool completely (at least one hour). Once the engine has cooled open the hood and locate the oil dipstick. Usually the handle will be orange and marked with the word oil. Lift the dipstick out of the oil container by pulling on this handle. Wipe the dipstick clean with a rag.
Re-insert it into the oil container. When you lift the dipstick the second time, hold it parallel to the ground (so oil doesn’t slip up or down) and look for two marks or holes on the bottom half of the dipstick. The oil reading should be between these two marks. If it is below the bottom mark this means your engine needs more oil. Consult your car owner’s manual for the type and amount of oil your model requires. Car oil can easily be picked up at gas stations or in automotive aisles of most grocery and convenience stores.
Put in about three fourths the amount of oil your manual suggests (never more than a quart at a time) and let it settle, then do another dipstick reading and add oil as appropriate.
5. How to Change your Air Filter
It is important to keep a clean air filter in your car’s engine as it can affect your miles per gallon and the power of your engine. You can consult your car owner’s manual for information on how often you should check and change your air filter. New air filters are available at auto parts stores. Once you have the new air filter park your car on level ground, let the engine cool and pop the hood.
In most cars made in the last twenty years you will find your air filter in a black plastic casing with silver clips on the sides holding the top on the casing. Remove these clips (and screws if there are any) and remove the dirty air filter, taking a minute to notice how it sits in it’s casing. Take the new air filter and set it down in the same way. It won’t fit unless it is inserted correctly so you should never try to force it into place. Make sure the rubber gaskets are flush and even. Ensuring clips are on tight, replace the lid.
Notice how these few suggestions increase your sense of ownership in your vehicle and keep an eye out for a future, intermediate edition of this article to include: how to change your oil and replace old hoses in your engine. Safe travels!
What to do with a Week (or Two) in Europe — Head East!
If you are heading to Europe soon and want to step outside the comfort zone of the tourist-acclimated Western countries, give the now-separated nations of the former Yugoslavia a try.
This beautiful region is once again becoming safe to travel in, so head there now while prices are cheap, accommodations are plentiful and before the whole place gets overrun by tourists.
Ljubljana
The capital city of Slovenia is a good place to start your Eastern adventures. Since the airport outside of Ljubljana is small and travel taxes in Slovenia are high, the cheapest way to access the city is to fly into a more well-known international hub, such as Venice or Salzburg, and take the train into Zelezniska Postaja, the Ljubljana train station.
Plan on spending at least two nights in the city. For an upscale hotel experience, go to the Grand Hotel Union, a high rise right in the middle of downtown. Or, for a funky hostel, try Hostel Celica (rated “hippest hostel” by Lonely Planet and receives great reviews by travelers), which is a converted military prison and about a 20-minute walk from the downtown center.
You can spend one day wandering Old Town and the Ljubljana castle and grab a bite to eat or a kava (coffee) at one of the cafes overlooking the picturesque Ljubljanica River. You can also stroll through the riverside market, teeming with local produce, handcrafts and Slovenian honey, a regional specialty.
Check out the Dragon Bridge (one of Ljubljana’s most iconic attractions) and the Triple Bridge, both designed by famed local architect Jose Plencik. Wander through Tivoli Park just west of the city center and don’t miss Preseren Square, with its statue of the great Slovenian poet France Preseren, whose works include the Slovenian National Anthem.
For dinner, if you want to experience the Slovenian take on pizza (served with a dollop of sour cream) try Pizzeria Foculus. They have a huge menu, decent prices and a good salad bar. For a cheap and easy meal look for a burek stand, a Baltic snack of phyllo dough stuffed with meat, apples, veggies or cheese. If you want to hit the nightclubs, give Sky Bar a try. An elevator will take you to a top-level lounge with a great view of town.
If you have another day to spend in the city make sure to check out the Jose Plecnik Museum House, open Tuesdays, Thursdays and weekends. If you are in the mood to get out of town and see the countryside there are some great side trip options from centrally located Ljubljana. Check out the Karst region to the south of town for some of the world most impressive caves or head north for a drive through the Julian Alps or an afternoon in picturesque Lake Bled.
Dubrovnik
Welcome to Croatia! Spend at least three days here, not including a full day of travel to reach the city from Ljubljana. The best way to get from Ljubljana to Dubrovnik, this Dalmatian coast darling of a city, is to take a train from Ljubljana to the Croatian port town of Split and board the Jadrolinija ferry, which will take you on an overnight Adriatic cruise to reach your destination in style. After stops at several islands the boat will get you into the ports of Dubrovnik in the afternoon. Be prepared for hoards of locals advertising sobe accommodations as you descend from the ferry. Sobe means “room” in Croatian and these accomodations are the best deal in town.
Locals will rent out anywhere from two to five or six rooms in their private homes to make a bit of extra income. Usually sheets and towels are provided and while meals are not, it’s a good idea to ask what specifics your host is willing to make available. I stayed with Paulina Cumbelic at Old Tabakarije . She rents out four double rooms and provides good, friendly service in a great location right outside of Old Town and very close to two good beaches. Once you have arrived at your sobe or hotel and have become oriented, drop your bags and check out the Old Town.
Walk down the main street, called the Stradun Promenade and hang a right on M. Pracata to catch a sunset cocktail at Buzza, a unique bar that clings to the outer wall of the Old Town. The view is breathtaking and the priceless scenery justifies the $8 glass of wine. Yes, that is very expensive for Croatia! Once your cocktail is done walk back across the Stradum to Prijeko Street, also known as Restaurant Row, to find a slightly tourist-infused but still a very good sit-down meal. Or grab a more casual bite at one of the many pizzerias off the Stradum in the other direction.
After dinner have a drink at the Hard Jazz Cafe Troubadour and take in some great live music while you relax in their comfortable outdoor lounge chairs. Wake up early the next day to get a head start on sight seeing in this culturally rich town. Start at Luza Square, at the east end of the Stradum. Admire Orlando’s Column and the Bell Tower, with its interesting clock features, before heading into Memorial Room of the Dubrovnik Defenders in the Sponza Palace.
The rest of the palace costs money to enter but this display, with its well-executed photographic war memorial, is free. Next head to Dominican Monastery Museum, with its peaceful cloister and century old pharmacy. From there, check out the Ethnographic Museum, also home of the 16th Century Dubrovnik granary.
Have lunch with a view by the water at the Old Port. After you’re done eating, browse the various boat tours offered at stands on the piers. The trip to the Elaphite Islands is well worth it, as is a trip to Mljet Island National Park. It is a good idea to book these trips at least 24 hours in advance. The boat tour prices usually include a drink (grappa is a local favorite) and a fish fry lunch.
After you’ve made your reservations spend the afternoon relaxing on the beach. For dinner consider taking the bus (stop at a T1 information station for a map) or a taxi to Lapad Bay and enjoy its pedestrian friendly, restaurant-intensive main street. Before you leave Dubrovnik be sure to walk around the Old Town walls, preferably at sunset, for amazing views of the town and the sea. It is an experience that is not to be missed!
Mostar
Accessible from Dubrovnik via a four-hour bus ride, Mostar, Bosnia is truly culturally enlightening. Bosnia retains more of a war-torn feel than Slovenia and Croatia, and gives a more accurate perception of how devastating this war was for the region. While it is safe to travel in Mostar, as a tourist you should stay aware of your surroundings (and personally, I chose not to wonder too far out of Old Town).
Book your accommodations ahead and stay at a reputable hotel. Kriva Cuprija was my choice and though a bit pricey it gets my recommendation for their central location and great view. Give the city at least two days to spend your days and nights in Mostar walking and seeing everything.
Starting your tour at the Old Bridge, or Stari Most, for which the city was named is a great place to begin. There is an excellent picture exhibit on the downtown side of the bridge that spans its obliteration during the war and it’s eventual rebuilding. Also on the downtown side of the bridge you will find Kujundziluk, or Coppersmiths St. This bazaar-inspired narrow lane is a taste of Budapest, with great Turkish-influenced jewelry and copperwares (Turkish coffee, prepared in a traditional copper pot is hugely popular here) and “evil eyes” used in the Turkish culture to keep bad spirits at bay.
You can wander slowly and keep an eye out for bargains on everything from chess sets to traditional belly dancing skirts. Follow Coppersmith St. to find your way to the Koski Mehmed mosque and the Karadjoz-bey mosque, both with minarets that provide a great view of town. After climbing all the minaret stairs, stop in one of the cafe’s lining the street for a sweet treat and a cup of Turkish coffee.
Then head to Bescivica house , built in 1635, for a glimpse at a traditional Turkish dwelling, with a great view of the Neretva River. When you start meandering back to the hotel, you will find the Turkish bathhouse, an authentic treat.
Dinner options including eating at the hotel (guests are offered a discount) or on Cobblestone St at one of the many Italian inspired restaurants.
On day two in this beautiful city, you can start the next day by taking a short walk down to the riverbank and taking in the view of the bridge from the water. You may be lucky enough to see Mostar Diving Club practice jumping into the river off the 21 meter high Stari Most, and if you like a bit of adventure you can jump yourself and receive your own Mostar Diving Club Certificate.
In the afternoon, check out the Tepa Market, with it’s assorted handcrafts and produce, before getting on a train back to come back full circle to Ljubljana.
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